Deep, rich and complex, with layers of anise, currant, mineral, cedary oak and blackberry and a touch of bell pepper. Sharply focused, with fine, integrated tannins, it finishes long, with a detailed aftertaste. Best from 2003 through 2012. 4,000 cases made.

So what's this famous, hands-on Cabernet like at four years? In a word, it suffers from its vintage. Although you root for it, it can't overcome a thinness that verges on herbs and veggies. Elaborate oak doesn't help. Makes you realize that every year is not a vintage year in California.