The grapes come from high mountain vineyards that yield small berries. This wine is young, tough and tannic. It's not one of your softly opulent '99s that immediately seduces. There is a deep core of blackberry, cherry and cassis fruit and a lush overlay of oak. This 25th vintage of Artist Series is a serious cellar candidate. Best after 2008.

Potent cedar, tobacco, herb and fresh earth flavors along with its firm structure give this wine a Bordeaux-like personality, with currant, herb, leather and olive flavors that are rich and concentrated, but in need of short-term cellaring. Drink now through 2012.