Based in Celles-sur-Ource in the Seine Valley on the Côte des Bar, this producer's nonvintage wine is ripe despite its dry extra brut dosage. With the unusual proportion of 25% Pinot Blanc in the blend, it is smooth and soft, finishing with just the right tangy acidity and a steely texture. Drink now.

The NV Grains de Celles Extra Brut is 100% Côte de Bar and assembles all the 20 different parcels cultivated by the family, which adds up to 50% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Blanc. Based on 2012 (with less than 5% réserve wines) it was disgorged in December 2015 with three grams of dosage. The wine opens a bit reductive and displays a clear, intense fruit and brioche aromas. Full-bodied, creamy and round on the palate, but also pure and very elegant, this is a bone dry Champagne to be served with food. Good intensity and character in the finish. Drink date 2016-2026.