This is tight, offering loamy earth, dried currant and berry flavors, with touches of cedar and sage. Full-bodied, with firm tannins. Drink now through 2012.

The Pinot Noirs are made in the red currant / pomegranate style of this varietal. The leanest, most austere of these Pinots is the 2007 Pinot Noir, which possesses a certain tartness as well as attractive cherry and currant fruit. This straightforward effort is best consumed over the next several years.

Very dry, high in acidity, and not particularly charming now in its youth, although there is a certain nobility. Has a tough, hard mouthfeel, with suggestions of ripe red cherries. An ager? Hard to tell. Give it until 2011, then try again.